A speculative term which implies that something or someone is the standard bearer in that particular field. For a Rolex watch to be the best in the world, it would have to tick several boxes and being a mid-range brand, it’s already on an upward struggle in this respect.
To be the best, some of the criteria would be:
- Are they considered the most desirable watches in the world? No.
- Are they the most expensive watches in the world? No.
- Are they the best-engineered watches in the world? No.
- Are they the most accurate watches in the world? No.
- Are they the most prestigious brand of watch in the world? No.
- Are they the best value for a marquee brand in the world? No.
What they are, however, is the best-marketed prestige brand in the world. Everyone recognizes ‘Rolex’ and by extension, associates the brand with luxury. This is nothing to do with them making the best timepieces; this is down to them having the best marketing strategy. They sponsor major sporting events and are advertised by A-list celebrities and it cannot be underestimated just how much influence their marketing has on public perception.
Objectively speaking, it goes without saying that Rolex does indeed manufacture exceptional watches. Their Submariner range, in particular, is instantly recognizable and from an engineering perspective, they are a magnificent and near indestructible example of watchmaking.
That being said, if engineering is the top of your agenda in a watch, and you cannot afford (for example) a Vacheron or Patek, then a Grand Seiko is better. Yes – a Seiko – that Japanese brand. Most watch connoisseurs will begrudgingly admit that the Grand Seiko is a marvel of engineering but, you wouldn’t buy one over a Rolex. Why? Because it’s a Seiko and the brand is associated with shopping center jewelry stores. No matter how good the Grand Seiko is, it just doesn’t have the gravitas or seduction of a Rolex.
There are many brands that, if not quite as revered, certainly manufacture timepieces of equal standing (or better) than Rolex and furthermore, many of these brands are not so stuck in the mud of tradition. My biggest gripe with Rolex is that the company has never really deviated from its core design ethic and consequently, their watches have remained staid to the point of old-fashioned. In some ways, I can see the logic of Rolex in maintaining its traditional or classic designs because their watches are instantly recognizable. However, that lack of adventure or courage to try something different is what turns me off the brand. It might be sacrilegious to say this but, I find Rolex’s achingly dull and that’s simply because there is no distinction between the models. A Submariner blends into a GMT, which blends into a Yacht-Master, which blends into a Sea-Dweller, which blends into a Datejust. The same goes for the Milgauss, Air-king, Explorer and Day-date. They are virtually indistinguishable. In fact, the only watch to try something different (and the only Rolex I own) is the Daytona. That is personal preference though as I like and collect Chrono’s.
At the bottom of the prestige pile, you have the likes of Oris, Tag, Bremont, Tudor, Maurice Lacroix, Christopher Ward etc. Again, labelling these as ‘bottom of the pile’ is speculative because Oris, for example, produce some phenomenal watches I’d take in a heartbeat over any Rolex outside the Daytona. Some of their designs are quite simply stunning and on the wrist, they look the business.
Going up a notch, Omega (who are probably on the same level as Rolex) manufacture watches for all occasions and for all tastes. Their designs differ wildly from model to model, and yet you would still be able to distinguish each one as an Omega. My daily wear is an orange PO Chrono and I wouldn’t swap it for anything, I love it. It’s bulletproof, and I love the flamboyance the watchmaker employed in creating it because it showed that Omega was unafraid to take a chance on something that might go down like a knackered lift with the public.
Breitling is another brand who deviate from the staid. Personally, I dislike Breitling watches as I find them far too busy and OTT but, there is no mistaking their quality or the brand no matter which watches you may own from their stable.
The higher up the chain you go, the better the watches get, not necessarily in exterior build quality but, perhaps more importantly for a purchaser – in complication and aesthetics. Panerai, Glashutte, Ulysse, Breguet, IWC, Harry Winston, Graham, Piaget, A. Lange & Sohne, for example, all produce better watches than Rolex. At the top of the tree, you have the holy trinity of Patek, AP and Vacheron which are virtually unparalleled and need no explanation or introduction.
At the end of the day, it comes down to personal preference. You ask any watch purist if Rolex is the best brand in the world, and the chances are you’ll get a negative answer. You ask any Rolex wearer if they are the best brand, and you’ll get gushing praise. All that matters is whether you think that Rolex is the best brand in the world for you. They’re not cheap because quality comes at a price and irrespective of personal opinion, there is no disputing that despite some clever marketing, Rolex watches, if not the best in the world, are certainly up there with the best.